Kiss a Frog to catch a Bass Part 2

In the previous article, we looked at the different types and brands of frogs on the market today and also at dispelling some of the myths that surround top water fishing. I have also noticed that of late frog fishing articles are being published left right and centre in our local bass magazines. This just goes to show how popular this technique really is and you don't need to be an expert to enjoy the treasures it has to offer. I must add that the content herein is based on my personal experience and preference and all I hope to achieve is to hand you an ounce more info that you can add to your already growing vault of bassing knowledge. In Part II, we will cover the terminal tackle component and then have a look at what makes a particular spot a potentially productive paddahaven.

Padda Sticks

A quick internet search will reveal that many rod manufacturers already make a rod specifically designed for frogging and in most cases the only obstacle to finding your optimal rod, is bank balance. There are however many non technique specific rods that can be used for a range of applications, including frogging. As mentioned, casting a frog all day can be arm numbing hard work, so try and find a rod that is light and comfortable to handle. What I would look for is a rod with a medium heavy action as you need to be able to drive the hook home at the end of long casts and also be able to turn a bass away from nearby cover once hooked. Casting distance is the next important thing, so a moderate to fast tip is recommended. Some may raise an eyebrow at my choice of a moderate tip, but remember that you are most probably using braid which will compensate for the slightly softer action. The trade off is that you should at least be able to cast the padda a mile. When it comes to length, most guys say to use the longest rod you can get away with as it helps with casting distance and hook sets, but try working a floating frog all day on a 7 foot 4 rod - not pleasant at all. I therefore use two frog rods - a longer one for buzzing, fast moving frogs, and a much shorter 6 foot 6 medium heavy rod for the floating or popping frogs. This gives me the ability to pitch accurately under tree limbs and also the ability to work the floating frog with short sharp jerks of the rod tip. In summary a high end super sensitive rod is not necessarily what is required, just make sure your broom stick has enough backbone

Reels

This is one area that I have experimented with extensively (wasted lots of $$$ as a result mind you) and have found that at some time or another you need to invest in good to above average quality bait casting reels. My reasons are as follows

• You are using braid and do not want unnecessary over winds, backlashes and line twist
• You need to make pretty long casts, often into wind and a frog is a bulky lure
• With a bit of thumb control you will be able to control the path of the frog to ensure you land it in the desired spot without spooking the fish
• You will be making lots and lots of casts and need your equipment to be both durable and reliable

If you are starting out in the sport, there is nothing wrong with a spinning reel, but to progress and grow with this technique, a bait caster is the answer. I would also not worry too much about drag as usually the drag is set as tight as possible so as to haul the bass to the boat. Ratio, on the other hand is vitally important. A high ratio burner type reel of 7:1 is recommended. My reasons are:

• You will make less turns of the handle, saving your stamina and preventing tennis elbow
• You can reel much slower, whilst still keeping the frog buzzing on the surface
• You can quickly and easily reel up any slack line after the bass has swallowed the padda or during the retrieve in between jerks when popping a floating frog

The author and fishing partner Louis vd Walt with a few piggies caught one early evening on frog at Goedertrouw Dam

Cable and Knots

Okay, so we have got the rod and reel sorted and now it's time for line choice. Fortunately here the choices are limited to three. Braid, braid and braid. I think you have got the message. Braid is my line of choice because:

• It has very little or no stretch. This allows you to drive the hook set home and turn the fish towards the boat
• Braid floats, so do some frogs and after all it is predominantly a surface lure
• It is thin in diameter which allows you to cast and handle heavier breaking strain that would be possible if you were using mono or flourocarbon.

Braid gives the angler the ability to be able to target big bass in thick cover and it also cuts through vegetation with ease when pulled tight. Personally I use 30lb Suffix braid which casts really well, PowerPro would be my second choice. You can go as heavy as you like, but I would imagine that unless you need to winch your tow vehicle out the mud, anything between 30 and 60lb would suffice for most conditions. Some of the downsides to braid that I have experienced is the poor abrasion resistance, especially when rocks are around and that the line does fray at the knot after frequent use. So don't go thinking you are indestructible just because you have 50lb braid rigged. Rather check your line and retie your knots regularly.

I have experimented with a few knots and as a result have also lost a fair amount of good bass due to poor knots. I started off using a double Palomar knot, but now only use a single Palomar which has held fast under some extreme circumstances. Just like any other knot, ensure you lubricate the braid sufficiently and make sure the knots sits properly once tag end is pulled tight.

Rigging

There is no rigging required for most floating frogs as they come ready to cast straight out of the packet, however you can trim the skirt of one of the legs. This will enhance the side to side "walk the dog" action. Hook manufacturers have produced specially designed frog hooks which have a steel spring connected to the eye of the hook. This spring keeps your frog in place on the hook assisting in better hook up ratio's. Two tricks I can share is namely to rig your frog on the hook before tying the braid. This prevents the spring from tangling with and/or damaging the braid. The other is to try and rig your frog in such a manner that the belly is slightly concave. This prevents the padda from doing backstroke. You can achieve this by imbedding the hook tip slightly further back on the top of the frog.

Spots

One thing I can say is that I have caught bass on frog from area's and spots that I never, ever, ever would have thought would have held bass. This notion goes to show that you should not approach padda fishing with any pre conceived idea's - Remember anything is possible. I have caught good keeper bass from ankle deep water at Midmar, been hammered by 3kg after 3kg fish at Goedertrouw and filled my livewell more than once at Inanda and Alberts targeting obscure or normally unfrequented spots. The common link to success is semi and submerged vegetation, timber and rock. You stand an even better chance when you find a combination of one or two types of cover/structure or where they meet or join. I have also enjoyed lots of success casting across rocky points and drop-offs or casting parallel to steep rocky banks. Don't ever ignore that stagnant, smelly, shallow spot right in the back of a bay or hidden from the main fishing areas as you will be amazed at how often these spots will produce a kicker fish or two. This is not to say you won't catch a bass in open water, but your chances of success improve exponentially the closer to cover you get.

Conclusion

Frogging can be one of the most rewarding ways to bump into Mr Bass and the added bonus that it is a relatively simple and easy technique to master should make it a sure winner with experts and beginners alike. A Bassing.co.za forum member has so correctly stated, "when in doubt, pull a padda out". Tight lines and happy frogging

Vaalboy
Bassing.co.za Pro Staff Member

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