Great White Fluke Fishing part 2

In Part 1, I covered the concept and colour choice reasoning for fishing the GWF and in part 2 and 3, I'll be covering rigging and fishing techniques. One of the most amazing things that I've discovered is that despite being proficient in a technique does not mean that you stop learning. I have recently been shown a different rigging method by a controversial member of the bass fishing fraternity. I've subsequently nicknamed this rig the "Flukey Wookey" and couldn't believe the action when testing it out in the swimming pool. At a recent outing to Albert Falls, this technique gave me fish when others baits didn't. The moral of this story is to be receptive to new ideas; you never know when it will pay off

Equipment Selection

There are many ways of rigging the fluke, however one needs to base rigging and terminal tackle decisions depending on what structure or cover is being targeted. The objective would be to try and present the fluke to Mr Bass in the most optimal way possible. The fluke would need to mimic a bait fish swimming around, represent a wounded fish or suddenly surprise the bass so as to entice an aggressive reaction strike. I generally use a 3/0 wide gap hook as the fluke has the knack of bunching up on the hook during the hook set and a reasonably sized hook just gives the added advantage of getting a bit more purchase. For baby flukes, a 2/0 or 1/0 would be preferred. I generally fish with nothing heavier than 13lb line and in my experience this is sufficient more often than not for most applications. I describe what set up I use for each technique, however would urge you to match your rod, reel and line choice to the technique or cover you are targeting. Just by changing rods, I stopped snapping line when striking, this after spending huge $$$ on different lines as I had mistakenly thought the line was the problem.

Weightless

This is a great alternative to top water baits especially during early morning periods when bass are feeding in the shallows. I usually use a 3/0 wide gap hook and would rig the fluke by inserting the point of the hook into the tip of the head and thread the hook body a few mm before exiting underneath. The longer or shorter you thread the fluke will result in different actions and a bit of trial and error is required to get the desired action. (See Figure 1) After exiting the nose, then twist the hook and thread through the slit in the fluke's belly. By inserting the hook tip just under the surface on the back will ensure the fluke is weed less. I have had great success fishing a weightless fluke as a top water alternative, especially when faced with heavy cover such as semi or submerged grass and weeds. The rig I use for this application is a 7ft Crucial cranking rod, 10lb Berkley Big Game and a high bearing 5:1 ratio reel. I like using the medium action rod, as it "loads up" nicely when the bass swallows the fluke and allows a few extra seconds to set the hook. When I hear or see bust ups in the shallows and the bass are in feeding mode I cast the fluke out and as it lands immediately start the retrieve by jerking the rod tip down from a 3 to 5 o clock position. Depending on how vigorously you jerk, you can get the fluke to breech the surface which imitates a fleeing bait fish. As the hook tip is buried for the weed less application, hooking the fish will require a little patience as the fish needs to swim off with the fluke before setting the hook. I often just feel the rod load up, reel up any slack and hammer the hook home. Steep rocky banks is another area where fishing a weightless fluke is deadly. Pitching it close to the rock face and letting the fluke just sink slowly is usually all that's required to illicit a violent strike. Once the fluke has sunk to the bottom, lift the rod to the 12 o'clock position and slowly drop the rod tip down to entice the bass to bite.

Figure 1


2.99 kg Goedertrouw florida - white fluke texas rigged

Texas Rigged

This must be my all time favourite GWF rigging method. Why you may ask? Because the technique I am about to explain, gives me three opportunities per cast to latch onto Mr. Bucket Mouth. As can be seen by figure 2, I usually use a 3/0 wide gap hook and have just recently converted to tungsten bullet sinkers. Besides being smaller for better penetration into cover, I have also found the rig to be more sensitive and I "feel" the bottom much better. My rod of choice is a 6,6ft medium heavy Berkley Tactix which is flexible enough to cope with my hooligan strikes, but has enough backbone to horse a piggy away from the cover. After much trial and error (as mentioned previously) I spool my Shimano Metanium 7:1 with 12,8lb Siglon fluorocarbon. I am warming to Halo fluorocarbon which so far seems great, but does cost twice as much. I always look for semi or submerged cover which could provide some protection for the bass or provide an ambush spot for unsuspecting prey. Sunny days are easier to locate the bass as you would most probably find them in the shaded area of this cover. In overcast conditions, bass tend to move slightly away from cover, but will always be close by.

Figure 1

Now for the "3 in 1" pitching concept. Chance #1: First is the initial pitch to the cover, allow the fluke to sink to the bottom. One of the great things about a texas rigged fluke is that it does not fall straight down, but darts randomly, mimicking a panicked bait fish. At this stage watch your line carefully as a good sized fish will inhale the fluke and you won't even feel the tap, all you will see is your line move.

Chance #2: Once your fluke has hit the bottom, give the rod a gentle shake and then wait. The bite is usually less subtle than when the fluke free falls and you should feel a solid tap on your line.

Vaalboy
Bassing.co.za Pro Staff Member

Discuss this article: Great White Fluke Fishing part 2